And... we're here!

A giant windfarm on Lake Nicaragua!

I’ll type this now, as we drive south from the Nicaragua/Costa Rica border, knowing that I’ll have shifted gears once we arrive at our Nosara home. This last border crossing was much like the others, very hot (Maeve has become good at moving her nostrils in different directions to ‘blow cool air on myself’) long waits, a lot of paperwork at different offices, fumigation of the car (where they spray the outside and then, with what the kids described as the world’s largest gun, they blow a huge puff of smoke inside the car – I so wish I’d had the camera with me, both to capture what they do and how the kids responded. Hilarious, if toxic.) 

Recognize that flay? Celebrating arrival.

Yesterday, we drove through three countries – El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, all verdant green, dotted with volcanoes, roosters and horses along the road, aggressive but whimsically painted buses roaring. Also along the road are people selling various things – but just one thing each.  There will be a 4 km stretch of people selling pineapples, and then a 2km stretch of lychees, 2km of birdcages, 3km of strawberries, 1km of shrimp, 2km of painted pots, 1km of hammocks. Here, they buy local. I also noticed how many, many fathers or older brothers are walking hand in hand with their kids or younger siblings. I hope this means something good.

We stopped to sleep in the Sandanista stronghold of Esteli, arriving in the dark as the whole town was without power. Our hotelier provided us with a candle and we st out to find dinner. It being Sunday, the cathedral was still holding service. When we peeked in, you could see giant clouds of smoke rising behind the men in white robes at the front. It was beautiful somehow. So too was the sky, lit up with lightning. We found a simple meal of beans, rice, and potato cake at the local grocery market (powered by their generator.) The lights came back on, breaking the spell, just in time for bed.

And before laundry or dinner, we went immediately to our beach...

Dan just remarked that it’s much greener today than it was when he visited Costa Rica in April. It’s not raining at the moment though we can see it in the distance. It is a damp 34 degrees. The kids are in the backseat, heads together, looking through their passports, reminiscing about various parts of our trip, already as if it were years ago. So sweet (and must say I prefer this to their activity of 20 minutes ago, throwing balled up socks at one another, laughing riotously and then arguing ridiculously.) We’re here!

... to watch the sunset surfers!

PS... Now, we're really here - in Nosara! So far it is exactly like living in a jungle. The kids asked me please not to post about all the wildlife they've seen in our yard as they'd like to do so tomorrow, so I'll only mention the smallest (well, except the ants.) We had a hard time getting the kids to bed because of a grasshopper that is bigger (and thicker) than Dan's hand. At first they were thrilled, looking at its autumnal colours from behind the window. Then, they were completely freaked as it joined them in their room (okay, so maybe it was a little bit because I screamed I was so startled!) Ah, I guess we'll have to close a window or two.

Much more soon.

Sometimes You Just To Have To Wait

Early morning view of the volcano from our hotel's rooftop

Well, not every day was going to be a storybook one, was it? Today began beautifully (a very early morning walk to see Antigua and find a bakery) and ended beautifully (I'm writing this on a hammock, next to the room where the kids are grinning, sprawled-out-asleep, with an enormous beer in my hand, and Dan seated next to me, plotting tomorrow.) In between, was a little... tiresome.

See? Exceedingly charming. In Antigua, this morning.

We were led to believe (through our own research) that the border crossing between Guatemala and El Salvador would be easy-peasy; it was not. My plan is to get the kids to write you their perspectives tomorrow (and hopefully Dan will too.) For now, I just want to say that there is no one I would rather have crossed that border with. It took nearly four hours; we had run out of good snacks; it was very hot (so hot that the cards had stuck together meaning we couldn't play crib - but could still play uno); the surroundings were hard - dogs and people rummaging through garbage piles or just standing, waiting around (for what?); we knew we wouldn't make it to our intended destination. But, throughout, everyone was calm, even good natured. We all read or played games, Maeve sketched awhile, we made a few Costa Rica plans, we played too many rounds of 20 questions, and finished all the peanut butter. No one complained (well, except me, who, being all for workers' rights, was still annoyed that one of the offices was closed for a two-hour lunch.)

Our car may not be perfect, but at least we're not driving this???!!!

It was very late afternoon by the time we officially entered El Salvador, so we made the solid decision to stay not far down the road, in Santa Ana, rather than risk driving at night. The town is refreshingly not exceedingly charming (more garbage and gentle leering, less cobblestone and quaint crafts.) We're staying in a place I'd recommend to everyone - Casa Verde, run by a sweet couple, and boasting a small pool, rooftop garden, aforementioned hammock, and board games! The kids were thrilled to arrive and jump straight into the pool. We then joined throngs of Salvadorians at a terrific restaurant on the main square and have enough leftovers for breakfast. Phew, as we'll be leaving even earlier tomorrow, hoping for smoother border crossings (into Honduras and hopefully also Nicaragua) and to make up some distance.

Almost there! In two or three days we'll be in our home-for-awhile, Nosara, Costa Rica. Unless, that was the clutch burning we smelled as we pulled into this hotel... I'm sure it wasn't :)

Curva Peligrosa

We are in Guatemala!! I think I had a vague idea that it would be full of green mountains and vibrant, embroidered cloth. I was right, but, oh it's so much more mountainous, so much more vibrant! The Curva Peligrosa refers to the signs posted along the road we took through the mountains today - Dangerous Curve. I think it would make a good book title.

Backing up a bit, we decided to linger for a whole extra night and day in San Cristobal de las Casas, the "cultural capital" of Chiapas. The trip there from Mexico City had been uneventful, largely, but long and tiring. Dan was able to do a bit of work in the morning while the kids and I roamed the narrow, cobblestone streets. The city is set in a valley and the streets are lined with colourful buildings with red tiled roofs and wrought iron window boxes full of incredible flowers. You can smell roasting coffee everywhere, the pastries are exquisite, traditional crafts tumble out from shop doors and the huge city market. The city is bookended by two churches atop high hills that you need to climb in order to attend (or, just to see the view.) The kids did this with Dan during the afternoon while I popped into a couple museums and then wandered slowly through the market, practicing all the restraint I had not to purchase embroidered blankets, clothing and bags and Zapatista memorabilia and pots.

Me, practicing restraint. My new plan is to drive back from Costa Rica with the car empty so we can buy beautiful handcrafted things on the way home.

Sam took most of the photos over the past few days, so most of them involve the stray dogs of Mexico.

See, how delicious does that veggie burger look?

We then met up for dinner at a fabulous veggie restaurant (so many good veggie restaurants in Mexico!) The kids enjoyed San Cristobal's many pedestrian-only streets, the dancers, the strawberry juice, the bunk beds. It was so good to have this completely relaxed day in such a meaningful, beautiful place.

Dan, expressing his frustration over paperwork (or just being goofy.)

This morning, rested and devices loaded with more books, we left right after breakfast to begin the journey to Guatemala. Even though we were very first in line, crossing the border took very close to two hours (both exiting Mexico and then entering Guatemala) - but it went very smoothly. You have to pay to leave the country (which I find hilarious, because you also don't have the option to just stay on and skip the fee!) and one officer was much kinder than the other, but we got our vehicle import payment back, there were no soldiers with lots of guns (becoming so familiar in Mexico) and we got through to the other side.

Immediately, we were surrounded by mountains. Enormous but not intimidating, green, cloud-swathed. The thing about those mountains is that there isn't a gentle road carved through the passes. You have to climb them and then descend them and repeat and repeat. The roads are narrow, incredibly steep and sharply winding. You need to navigate the endless switchbacks with large trucks and buses careening (or painfully crawling) both behind you and coming toward you. The scenery is spectacular - easily the most dramatic we've driven through so far. Also, it's easily the most choke-inducing drive we've had - not because we were scared (Dan was calm, at least inside, throughout) but because of the black smoke rolling from most of the vehicles. It faded the green a little. Every once in awhile, deep in a valley or high on the mountain, a village would appear and it would be bustling with donkeys, small kids, bicycles piled high all sharing the same road. No one gave us a second glance. We gave them many more.

Oh, and the buses!! They are old US school buses that have been imported by Guatemalans and refurbished (and repainted and decorated resplendently) for public transit. Seriously, many of them look like modern folk art on wheels. I'll try to get a better picture of one tomorrow, but this is one headed straight for us on a sharp turn in a small town. They are packed full of people and chickens and packed high with belongings of every kind. We watched one of the fare collectors climb onto the roof, secure something down and climb down over the back of the bus - all while going at top speed. There is a documentary about these buses - and more importantly about the resilience of those driving them (and in them) - La Camioneta.

Maeve demonstrating that she should not be peeing on that side of the road.

Just as the sun was setting and the clouds were engulfing the Volcan Agua (there are three picture-perfect volcanoes surrounding the city!) we entered Antigua. We're staying at a hotel with a beautifully tended rooftop garden, Mayan blankets and good showers (though I'm beginning to wonder how much good the showers are doing, given that we've not done laundry since our first day in San Diego and things are getting a little, um, sticky.) Tonight, we walked through the main plaza and park and along the relaxed, cobblestone streets lined with lanterns and faded pastel buildings, to dinner ( a restaurant/bookstore/bar!) At dusk, at least, it felt pretty enchanting - much like San Cristobal. I think the region warrants a few more days, but... another time as tomorrow, we head to El Salvador. First, we'll take some photos from that roof top garden in the morning.

Some Images from Getting Back to the Cities

A pre-dinner splash in Mazatlan (a seawall promenade runs along the city's stunning coast) where I got in big trouble from the locals for letting them get so close to the enormous waves.

Sam crashing a wedding. Actually, he was immersed in the soccer game being televised across the street and didn't even notice the brilliant wedding party walk by.

Bouncy balls with shiny ribbons attached are hugely popular with the stylin' kids of Guadalajara.

Sam, demonstrating what a good listener he has become, now that he's 10.

Watching the street orchestra warm up.

Breakfast and a too-short visit with Cait and Megh in Mexico City!!

The Cathedral in Zocolo, Mexico City's central square. Construction began in 1573 and took only several hundred years to complete!

One of Rivera's astonishing murals in the National Palace.

Pro Natura, an organization in Cardel doing scientific research on the migration of hawks and dragonflies!

The staff were incredibly knowledgeable and enthusiastic...

...and apologetic. They were disappointed that a storm had blown through so the numbers were less dramatic than usual. We saw about 100 raptors, mostly Mississippi Kites. Yesterday they had over 18 000 raptors fly overhead! The numbers increase in October and each year there are between 4 and 5 million that migrate through (the surrounding mountains and ocean create a corridor where all the migratory paths converge.)

Pickles and other things

Sam and Maeve contemplating the crashing sea in Mazatlan

A trip like this is, as some of the photos have suggested, drenched in incredible colour and full of overwhelming grandeur, sometimes risky adventures, and gorgeous surprises.

It is also, of course, sometimes tedious (oatmeal for breakfast again), tiresome (packing and unpacking again and again), noisy (backseat children arguing over inane things like drying one's book out on one's sibling's legs), worrying (will we really make it across that river? will this ferry really survive these swells?), sad (will that man who severely damaged his truck after careening off the hurricane damaged road be still able to provide for his family? was that child sleeping on the sidewalk in the square tonight just resting while her mama worked nearby?), frustrating (seriously, you're going to complain that there is no cheese on your veggie burger at this amazing vegetarian cafe we've managed to find in this incredible Mexican courtyard??!!) and exhausting.

The orchestra, at sunset beneath the cathedral

But, I think what will linger with me, what will stay part of me, are the sweet moments in between all of the rest.While we were waiting for various paperwork to be completed before getting tickets for the Baja Ferry, Sam joined a group of kids playing soccer in the cafeteria and Maeve sat on the floor to play Uno with a kid (by the end of the game they were giggling uncontrollably, rubbing noses.) Neither attempted much Spanish, but both were shining and brave and patient and happy. I got to spend a whole hour or so by myself in the hot desert at night looking, really looking, at the stars. This afternoon, my lunch came with a full bowl of pickles. They were perfectly crunchy, sweet/sour and reminded me of my mom and how much I wish I were sharing stories with her. Dan, in the driver's seat next to me, still holds my hand even when navigating a road barely there. Tonight, as we strolled back from dinner along Guadalajara's wide, pedestrian streets and plazas (there were so many thousands of people, we thought maybe it was part of the global march for action on climate change - but no, it was just families and friends enjoying a Sunday afternoon together) we came across an ornate raised platform. On top, were seated members of a full orchestra. It was a piece of magic.

And, the day after tomorrow, we meet up with dear friends for breakfast in Mexico City!! Happy International Day of Peace everyone.

Baja Continued by Dan

Here are some more photos from the rest of our trip down post-hurricane Baja.  Highlights:

- REALLY using the snorkel, when we drove past a line of cars and through a river which brought the water up over the hood.  (No photos of that, unfortunately!)  Cheers from the onlooking crowd of villagers as we drove on.

- Driving along a precarious washed out remnant of an elevated paved road, which I posted on Facebook a couple of days ago.

 - Seeing powerline towers toppled and crumpled 1/2 way up due to the high winds.

- Arriving in La Paz, at the southern end of our Baja jaunt, just after dark.  Half the city still without power, water on a roads, wires dangling from poles, and all hotels full.  Spent the night in the Walmart parking lot, following dinner at a generator-powered restaurant.

- Spending a full day waiting in line at various offices and banks to process all the paperwork in a very particular order to get on the ferry to the mainland.  Sam's birthday!

- Sleeping in a cabin on the overnight ferry, which tilted back and forth to a very surprising degree.  When the sun rose, we saw from the moderate swells that this was probably quite normal, and that the ship was not in danger of sinking in a 2nd hurricane.

Approaching one of many wash-overs.

The truck driver was staying in the back, and appeared upset.  I got from my limited Spanish that he had been there for 2 days.

Balancing on the thing strip of remaining elevated pavement, after seeing many vehicles stuck in the sandy ditch.

Waiting 1-1/2 hours for road construction, with a nice view of the Sean of Cortes.

A crumpled hydro tower near La Paz.

Waiting to board the ferry at ~11:00 pm.

Sign on ferry: "Mr. Passenger, care for your children, don't throw garbage in the sea".  Very good general advice.

My Family Road Trip Acrostic Poem by Maeve

Fabulous national parks
Atrocious smells (at the sea sometimes)
Mountains (Rocky and rocky)
Ice cream (lots! and unusual flavours!)
Laughing (like when Sam tried a dot of hot salsa and his eyes popped and he screeched)
Yikes! (so high, climbing up the mountains and canyons)

Red rocks
Octopus (at the Birch Aquarium, tentacles so cool)
Awesome cactic (way bigger than my dad)
Dogs on the street (so many strays in Mexico)

Tenting most nights (sometimes setting up in the dark with funny yodeling from elk nearby)
Riptides (so strong, why we couldn't go swimming in the ocean)
Interesting plants and creatures and landscapes
Picnics in unusual places (like at the side of a washed out road or on the edge of a cliff)

Top 10 Unusual Things by Sam

One of my favourite shots of the giantic-o cacti

Since it's my 10th birthday (or well it was a couple days ago,) I am listing my Top 10 weird and unusual things we've seen so far on our road trip (at least the ones I can think of right now.) They're not in a certain order.

1. A man sitting on a grimy toilet in the middle of a plaza in Guadalajara, completely painted (including the toilet and himself) grey and green. I have no idea why.

2. At Badlands National Park, a bighorn sheep climbed up the steep rocks to visit the visitors at the lookout. It was casually strolling along the path, not a care in the world.

3. We saw a sea lion group at Jolla Cove in San Diego and I got so close I could hear them breathe.

A good book is handy for road delays

4. The cacti are amazing. Some of them taste like cucumber, some are very prickly, some of them are three times taller than my dad, and some are even shaped like beaver tails!

5. There was a huge chipmunk and ground squirrel colony that were so friendly, one even clambered onto my hand.

6.In La Bufadora, Baja, there was an erupting geyser of water that was gigantic. Every time a wave crashed into the space where it was, it would shoot really, really high, splashing those watching.

7. Just before we got to Baja, there had been a hurricane there that damaged many things including the roads. There were lots of washouts including one where we had to drive through the river and the water came up to our hood. The snorkel came in very handy. People cheered when we made it through.

8. I got to have nutella banana crepes for my birthday breakfast (not unusual for some, but is for me.) The night before we slept in a parking lot and the night of my birthday we slept on a ferry crossing the Sea of Cortez. The rocking of the ferry made us unbalanced. I loved spending time on the top deck where you could see the ocean, islands, and other ships. And, in the morning, we watched Ice Age 4 in Spanish in the movie room!

Colourful tap dancing

9. Tonight, when we were trying to pick out a dining place in the squares and plazas of Guadalajara, we saw a man who had a pet squirrel with a leash on his shoulder and tap dancing indigenous people.

10. Bryce Canyon National Park is famous for its hoodoos which are spires of rock that have been eroded but appear to be twirling up into the sky. When you looked across the canyon to all the hoodoos lined up, I thought about how it would be a good setting for an action movie because the hero could be jumping from one to the other and the evil villain would get pierced. The park looks it's an alien but beautiful landscape.

10!

Along the sometimes hilarious, sometimes harrowing road through the Baja peninsula (oh, and there will be more good stories and photos to come from that journey!) this boy had a birthday. Ten years ago, Dan and I went for a much quieter drive along a bumpy country road, hoping to speed along the contractions. And now, I get to have Sam's gorgeous, funny, fact-peppered, curious, often quiet but always humming company along for every drive.

Boy, Almost 10, Assaulted by Cactus (Wednesday, September 17)

by staff reporter, Dan Rheault

A visiting boy was viciously attacked by an exceptionally sharp cactus Wednesday morning  near El Rosario, Baja, Mexico.  Fortunately, only minor injuries were reported.

While walking back to the car after examining a forest of cacti with Sam and Maeve Brown (and investigating a rattlesnake-like sound), Sam Brown’s dad heard a loud yelling.

Reportedly, while brushing the cactus off his pantleg, the unpleasant cactus imbedded itself in Sam’s hand.  Dad had to sudue the cactus with his shirt and promise not to write a blog post about the inci <REPORTER ATTACKED, REPORT TRUNCATED>

Suspect

Victim