Pickles and other things

Sam and Maeve contemplating the crashing sea in Mazatlan

A trip like this is, as some of the photos have suggested, drenched in incredible colour and full of overwhelming grandeur, sometimes risky adventures, and gorgeous surprises.

It is also, of course, sometimes tedious (oatmeal for breakfast again), tiresome (packing and unpacking again and again), noisy (backseat children arguing over inane things like drying one's book out on one's sibling's legs), worrying (will we really make it across that river? will this ferry really survive these swells?), sad (will that man who severely damaged his truck after careening off the hurricane damaged road be still able to provide for his family? was that child sleeping on the sidewalk in the square tonight just resting while her mama worked nearby?), frustrating (seriously, you're going to complain that there is no cheese on your veggie burger at this amazing vegetarian cafe we've managed to find in this incredible Mexican courtyard??!!) and exhausting.

The orchestra, at sunset beneath the cathedral

But, I think what will linger with me, what will stay part of me, are the sweet moments in between all of the rest.While we were waiting for various paperwork to be completed before getting tickets for the Baja Ferry, Sam joined a group of kids playing soccer in the cafeteria and Maeve sat on the floor to play Uno with a kid (by the end of the game they were giggling uncontrollably, rubbing noses.) Neither attempted much Spanish, but both were shining and brave and patient and happy. I got to spend a whole hour or so by myself in the hot desert at night looking, really looking, at the stars. This afternoon, my lunch came with a full bowl of pickles. They were perfectly crunchy, sweet/sour and reminded me of my mom and how much I wish I were sharing stories with her. Dan, in the driver's seat next to me, still holds my hand even when navigating a road barely there. Tonight, as we strolled back from dinner along Guadalajara's wide, pedestrian streets and plazas (there were so many thousands of people, we thought maybe it was part of the global march for action on climate change - but no, it was just families and friends enjoying a Sunday afternoon together) we came across an ornate raised platform. On top, were seated members of a full orchestra. It was a piece of magic.

And, the day after tomorrow, we meet up with dear friends for breakfast in Mexico City!! Happy International Day of Peace everyone.